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Kayakers on Lochsa Falls, Idaho

Boating is the art of dancing the tango with a fire breathing dragon.  The goal is to only get singed every now and then.  How do you accomplish this?  By learning the language of water.  Water is the most honest thing on the planet, it will always tell you what it’s going to do before exactly what it is going to do before it does it, you just have to know how to understand.  First step to this is learning how to recognize whitewater features and understanding how these features are formed.

Current

It’s the strongest down river “pull”.  This can be identified by a bubble line- in most rivers.  The bubble line will often indicate the strongest line of current.  In a river that is glacially fed, bubble lines may not be present.  Bubble lines are caused by the byproducts of the decay of organic plant material.  Glacial rivers tend to be colder and have large amounts of fine silt.  These conditions mean less plant material and less bubbles. Another way to identify the current, is to look for conveyer belt like chunks of current.  Currents will, generally, move in a straight line.

Eddy

Patch of current going in the opposite direction of the main current.  Eddies are caused by the current backfilling an open space. These could be caused the shape of the riverbank, and rocks.

Whirlpools

Are formed when 2 opposing currents meet.

Hole

A hole is an eddy but, in the vertical plain. This happens when water goes over a rock, or a ledge.  This creates a hole- no pun intended- that the river refills, creating a circular  current.

Pillow

This is a pad of water on the top of a rock.  This is important to note because it will let you know- ON SMALL ROCKS, NOT POUR OVERS there’s enough water to go over (sometimes).

Wave Train

A series of waves that are close together in a line. The way to identify a wave train vs. a hole is that waves have friends, holes do not.  Sometimes a hole can hide in a wave train.

Water Depth

There’s no real way to know the depth of the water, however; you can see were the water gets shallow.  The surface texture of the water changes compared to surrounding water.

Boils

Looks like it sounds, caused by water being forced up. Boils at the on the downstream side of a pour over and or a hole can indicate where the hydraulic jump of the hole has ended. When boils pop up, they can stop the momentum of the boat.

HAZARDS

The river is an inherently dangerous environment.  Learning to recognize these hazards will prepare you to plan routes through rapids that will allow you minimize the risk posed by them.

Horizon Lines (Not always a Hazard, but can be!)

Indicate a drop in water level, usually happens at the top of the rapid.  This could also indicate a low head dam, which is a death trap.  Please, please, do your homework, make sure you are aware of all low head dams on the section of river you are running and portage around them. Here are a few videos that talk about hydraulic jumps and low head dams. This one is shorter and my personal favorite for this topic. This one is very through and has great data.

Undercuts

Often happen in rock faces the meet the water.  These are often sneaky because the water undercuts the rock face and can trap body.

Pour Overs

Think of Niagara Falls, or the water feature in your backyard.  Basically, it’s a mini waterfall in the middle of the river.  This is probably NOT something you want to go over.

Strainers

Think about a tree, and tip it on it’s side and put it in the water.  These are dangerous because the strength of the current can pin/ trap a person, or a boat in or on the branches.

Sieve or Siphon

 A pile of rocks that water can go through, but people and boats cannot.  These are extremely dangerous because the current can trap a person, and extraction can almost be impossible without a drop in water level.

These are some of the basic features in a river.  Practice identifying them in small streams and creeks, not just the rivers you plan on boating.  The more you practice, the more you will see.

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Astral’s Green PFD is an Example of a Type V PFD

Every summer thousands of people go on commercial river trips.  They stand at the river’s edge eagerly listening to the safety talk, but when it comes to the dreaded PFD fitting ceremony, they run for the hills. The guides grumble as they listen to complaints of “it’s too tight! I can’t breathe!”   

What do you need to know to use a PFD (Personal Floatation Device) safely?

What do you need to know to use a PFD (Personal Floatation Device) Safely?

Choose Based on Activity

First things first, we need to choose a lifejacket/PFD appropriate for the activity we are participating in. 

The US Coast Guard uses a classification system to help determine what a PFD can be used for. Here is a great article about the classification system, and what it means. For white water this is what you need to know:

-Most PFDs that are designed for whitewater are Type III and Type V.

-Type III has about 15 pounds of flotation, are designed to allow for motion and to keep the wareee up right.  This means it won’t keep the airway open if the person is unconscious. 

-Type V are special use PFDs that are designed for very specific preposes.  For example, most commercial rafting trips have Type V PFDs for customers with a pillow to keep the airway open in rough water. 

-Rescue PFDs have quick release feature which is useful in swift water rescue situations.  If you want to know more about Swift Water Rescue, take a class.

Choose for Comfort

PFD Label, It will tell all.

Second, the PFD needs to be comfortable.  If you don’t ware it, it won’t work.

All lifejackets have a weight and chest size associated with it.  Take measurements and choose one that will fit you. You will know the size and weight classification by reading the label.

Third, make sure it is adjusted properly:

 -Buckle all buckles from the bottom up, so you don’t miss one.

– Close all zippers.

-Starting from the bottom up, tighten all the adjustable straps.

-Test the fit by pulling on the shoulder straps.

  • if you can touch your chin, the straps are too loose, go back and readjust them.
  • if you can get your hand under the shoulder strap and nothing else when you pull up, good job! Go and enjoy the river!

For those who have bigger busts, if you can lengthen the shoulder straps and tighten the sides, often you can find a more comfortable fit, because it drops the front panel to act as a support as opposed to extra compression.

How to Take Care of your PFD and When to Get a New One

In general, if you are on the water consistently ie. guiding, the rule is: a lifejacket has the lifespan of about 4 seasons. However, if you go for a swim in season 2 and feel like you aren’t as buoyant as when you first got the lifejacket, it’s time for a new one. 

It’s time for a new PFD when there is a lot of sun damage, tears in the fabric, broken buckles, broken zippers, or when the label is worn off.

Avoiding unnecessary sun exposure, making sure the PFD dries out and never ever using your PFD as a cushion will help extend it’s life.  

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If you have a boat to catch, here is a list of a few essential items I never leave home without.

-Lifejacket/ PFD: I don’t like to think in absolutes, with the exception of a PFD. You should always, always bring it and wear it. There are too many people who’s last error in life was not wearing one, don’t let that be you.

Whistle: It’s one of the most efficient ways to communicate over long distances in an emergency situation. The Fox40 is my personal favorite, it’s loud and works when wet.

Helmet: A rafting/kayaking helmet, not a bike helmet! Why? Whitewater helmets are designed to take an impact from almost any angle, and take multiple impacts.

River Knife: These typically have a blunted end and a sheath that attaches to the PFD. The blunt tip prevents putting holes in rafts in the event they get dropped. Knives are important safety tools. If for example you get caught in the boat’s rigging, during a flip, cutting yourself out would be a top priority.

River Shoes: Something sturdy that can get wet, drain, and dry quickly.

First Aid Kit: Better safe than sorry. I will create a post about what’s in my first aid kit shortly.

Water Bottle: Hydrate or die-drate! Seriously, bring at least a 1L or 32 oz refillable water bottle. I use this water bottle from REI. I like it because it’s inexpensive (if I lose it won’t be difficult to replace), durable, and it’s not insulated. I enjoy that feature on chilly nights because it doubles as a hot water bottle in my sleeping bag.

-Locking Carabiners: I only use locking carabiners. Non- locking carabiners are the stuff of nightmares, because they can get caught on clothing during a flip and trap a person underwater.

4″ Cam-strap/Tie-down strap : Cam-straps are so versatile, I never leave home without one! This is a way to anchor your gear to the boat, and makes it easier to keep your shinadle together. I have always used NRS straps, I know there are other companies who make them. However, I’ve never used them and can’t vouch for their quality or durability. You can find NRS’s cam-straps here.

10 L Dry Bag: This is where you will put extra layers, first aid kit, medications you need during the day, snacks and anything else you need to have on hand. Don’t put liquids into a dry bag- if it leaks, the drybag is no longer dry. NRS makes great dry bags, so does Watershed. You can find NRS here, or Watershed here.

Sunscreen: Even on cloudy days, this is a must. I like to keep a small tube in my PFD pocket.

Layers appropriate for the weather and water conditions: I always bring an extra layer, even if it’s 120 degrees outside.

This is my basic day out on the water kit. I add things depending on weather, water conditions, and length of trip.

*I’m not getting a kickback from the links on this page, these links are to gear I use and love.